Go West: six gems to visit beyond Tokyo

Japan’s so-called ‘Golden Triangle – Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto – is buckling under an unprecedented number of visitors chasing the country’s many charms and tastes. Yet, the moment you venture beyond the famed trio of cities, you’ll find tranquillity and the true essence of a country with so much more under the surface.

I travelled with ANA to Matsuyama in Japan’s west – the perfect gateway to explore Ehime Prefecture’s rich culture and natural beauty. It’s also easier than you think.

FINAL DAY | Win a pair of tickets to Japan with ANA and Linkd Tourism | CLOSES 13 FEB →

Fly with ANA via Tokyo and take advantage of free domestic flights on cash fares, or use your Velocity Points and enjoy easy domestic connections for no extra points (to some places).

From the sake central of Saijō to the expansive mountain-side temple walks of Onomichi, there’s plenty to whet your appetite. Like me, you’ll be back for more.

1. Matsuyama

Matsuyama, the capital of Ehime Prefecture, is a delightful change of pace. The city is home to Dōgo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest hot springs, which offers a rejuvenating experience.

You’ll strip down in the company of strangers and your same-sex travel companions, but no one bats an eyelid and neither should you. Having said that, I hear hysterical laughter from the ladies’ section when two older women accidentally emerge from the front of the onsen, stark naked. Back in the men’s room – after a customary seated shower – the soothing thermal waters melt my muscle tension like it was never there.

Matsuyama Castle, perched atop a hill, provides panoramic views and a sense of history that dates back centuries. Exploring the local shops and sampling Ehime’s famous citrus fruits adds a refreshing touch. You’ll find orange juice bars with over 20 varieties on tap. The orange-infused ice cream is something else.

Dōgo Onsen is one of the oldest hot springs in the world.

Sea bream is a local delicacy.

It’s delicious both as sashimi and as a fried croquette.

The chairlift is a fun way to visit Matsuyama Castle.

Enjoy sweeping views of Ehime Prefecture’s biggest city.

The view from the top of Matsuyama Castle.

2. Ozu Castle Town

A short journey from Matsuyama leads us to Ozu, where we stay at the enchanting Hotel Nipponia Ozu Town. This unique accommodation isn’t just one building – it comprises multiple restored residences throughout the whole town, offering an immersive experience of Ozu’s storied past.

All guests enjoy included beverages in the lounge and their minibars, while some rooms feature beautifully scented cypress baths that will see you luxuriating after a day of sightseeing. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant ‘Le Un’ is a multi-course masterpiece featuring local produce with a Japanese-French fusion.

Strolling through Ozu’s quaint streets feels like stepping back in time, with beautifully preserved houses and a serene riverside atmosphere. Similarly, Omoide Warehouse’s retro exhibits take you back to life in the mid-1900s.

Hotel Nipponia Ozu Castle Town is a very unique property.

The whole town is the hotel with restored houses being used as rooms.

Some rooms even feature a heavenly cypress bath.

French-Japanese dining at Le Un is excellent. Here’s more sea bream.

An artistic welcome from the chef.

Hop on a traditional boat and cruise the Hijikawa River over breakfast.

You can even stay in Ozu Castle – if your wallets are deep enough!

A visit to the Omoide Warehouse retro exhibits.

In the nearby town of Uchiko, experience the art of washi (paper) gilding at Ozu Washi. The process of crafting the paper is mesmerising as workers gently filter soaked fibres through a bamboo screen.

Then, under the watchful eye of a local craftsman, we roll on a fine layer of shimmering metal leaf to a pre-stencilled design to reveal some beautiful patterns after it’s brushed off.

A worker carefully creates washi paper.

Washi gilding with metal leaf is also delicate work.

Do a class if you can – they make great souvenirs.

This is Ozu Washi in the nearby town of Uchiko.

3. Hiroshima and Miyajima Island

The next stop is Hiroshima, where history and resilience are both deeply felt. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum are profoundly moving, serving as a poignant reminder of the importance of peace. You’ll see the Atomic Bomb Dome, the only structure that remained standing in the aftermath of the explosion.

Sights aside, if you want big-city vibes without the hustle and bustle of Tokyo and Osaka, Hiroshima is an excellent pick for experiencing the best of Japanese tax-free shopping and dining.

Hiroshima’s Atomic Bomb Dome is a sombre sight.

Paper cranes are used as a symbol of peace.

Hiroshima also has its own twist on the delicious okonomiyaki.

During our downtime, we hit up a refined bar in town.

Sakurao Gin is local to Hiroshima and excellent in drinks.

A short ferry ride takes you to Miyajima Island, famous for its iconic floating torii gate and delectable oysters. Our lunch of fried oysters (kaki furai) is mind-blowingly good. But don’t just stop there.

Venture up the island to find Daisho-in Temple, lined by the statues of 500 enlightened followers of Buddha – each with a different facial expression and many wearing a knitted hat to keep their heads warm. As you ascend the steps, turning the prayer wheels as you go, you’ll eventually reach the Henjokutsu.

Inside is a dimly-light chamber with 88 Buddhist statues representing the temples of the 1,200km-long Shikoku Pilgrimage. It’s said that those unable to make the pilgrimage can pray here instead.

Locals knit woollen hats for the 500 unique disciple statues.

Inside the Henjokutsu, where many come to pray to the 88 statues.

Turning the prayer wheels as you walk is said to bring good luck.

Miyajima Island is filled with deer.

The floating Torii gate is an iconic sight at Miyajima Island.

Freshly-cooked oysters is also another local delicacy.

4. Saijō

Heading back to the major cities of the East, be sure to make a pit stop at Saijō near Hiroshima – the home of sake brewing in Japan. Stroll down Sakagura-dori Street and visit seven of the region’s most esteemed breweries. You’ll gain an in-depth look into the laborious brewing process.

Do the trail on your own time (as long as the breweries are open) or take a paid guided tour on certain days, including tastings at each venue. If you’re anything like me, you’ll quickly fill your duty-free limit with top-quality sake without breaking the bank. Each sip reveals the craftsmanship and pride that define this beloved Japanese beverage.

Saijo is filled with Japan’s finest sake breweries.

Sake-brewing is a very labour-intensive process.

Enjoy sake tasting as you sample the different flavour profiles.

Oysters again – this time, freshly steamed. It’s so good.

It’s easy to fill your duty-free allowance here.

5. Onomichi

Our final stop is the coastal Setouchi region of western Japan. Famed for its extensive cycling routes (including the renowned 70 km-long Shimanami Kaido), Onomichi’s best sights will require some mastery of elevation.

Take the town’s temple walk – the winding path takes you from Onomichi Station to narrow lanes and cat-filled residential terraces as you pass by 25 temples. Or, do as we do; take the Mt Senko-ji Ropeway up to the summit and walk back down. Your legs might thank you.

Back in town, wander around and enjoy a drink from the friendly Beer Bar a Clue, perhaps followed by a famous bowl of Onomichi ramen from an assuming spot like Maruboshi.

Onomichi town looks picture-perfect.

Heading up Mt. Senko-ji via the ropeway.

We then meander down the mountain again, passing by 25 temples.

There are also stunning views from Mt. Senko-ji.

Back on the ground, this friendly barkeeper keeps our glasses full.

I went for the double-meat option at Maruboshi. The ramen is excellent.

6. Kurashiki

If time permits, Kurashiki is another scenic, historical town off the beaten track worth visiting. Known as the ‘Town of Storehouses’, the old city and canal is a picturesque area filled with Edo-period architecture, charming waterways, and quaint boutiques – some with a denim focus.

To wrap up your trip, you can catch a train from Kurashiki to Okayama, where the Shinkansen (bullet train) can whisk you back to the Golden Triangle to finish your adventure in Japan.

Kurashiki reflects on its Edo-period roots.

This town used to be a major storehouse facility for produce.

Kurashiki is a fascinating blend of old and new (but mostly old).

Oddly enough, denim stores are plentiful here.

Even the locals are embracing their denim look.

Choosing an ekiben (lunch bento) before our train back.

The Shinkansen is an efficient, albeit expensive way to traverse Japan.

On the Nozomi back to Tokyo.

7. Finishing in Tokyo

All roads lead to Tokyo, where you’ll likely start or finish your trip.

There are tasty bites at every corner. Mind-boggling attractions – such as the room-shifting digital art at Teamlabs Borderless – await. Endless tax-free shopping at megastores such as Don Quijote and BIC Camera will leave you with bulging suitcases. Or perhaps, extra suitcases.

But your holiday to Japan doesn’t truly end until you step off your ANA flight back in Australia.

FINAL DAY | Win a pair of tickets to Japan with ANA and Linkd Tourism | CLOSES 13 FEB →

Tokyo is the gateway for your West Japan trip.

TeamLabs Borderless features stunning digital art, unbound by walls.

It’s full of colour and imaginative designs.

You’ll enjoy fresh sashimi almost anywhere in Japan.

One of the many popular eateries in the Shinjuku area.

Onboard our flight back from Tokyo to Perth.

My Paid Exclusive Dining seafood meal in Economy cost around $25.

Photography and words by Brandon Loo, who travelled as a guest of ANA, Japan National Tourism Organisation and Hotel Nipponia Ozu Town.